by Alain Chivilò
At l’Observatoire de Paris, Acne Studios by Creative Director Jonny Johansson presented a collection dedicated to Women, Spring Summer 2024, inside the concept of an industrial mood.
51 Looks along the catwalk. Free navel and belly, enveloping sunglasses, glossy structured studded bags, studded trousers and purple, blue, green and red dresses to revive a muffled background tone. Lady tights, red stilettos and false eyelashes are subverted and juxtaposed. By British artist Katerina Jebb these, a scanning technique, are in prints on dresses and tops. Tea towel-like checks are reimagined with ruffles and pom poms on dresses.
The palette is also in pastel pinks, white and greys with a cement plaster stone. Furthermore, leather is crinkled, moulded, and pulled around the body, adorned with pockets and belt loop details as a subtle homage to denim as an industry. Layered transparent fabrics reveal and conceal.Skirts appear levitating, low on the waist, as if hanging off the body. A bra attached to a t-shirt and sweaters patchworked together to become a slit skirt, bags nonchalantly attached to garments.
As pointed out by Jonny Johansson, Creative Director for Acne Studios, “the industrial mood this season comes mostly from my passion for denim and the many ways we can manipulate this amazing fabric. It also comes from the idea of a construction site: things are unfinished, a work in progress. I wanted to convey the beauty of that. We also worked with Katerina Jebb’s scan-ography series Physical Evidence of a Woman. These artefacts are something that I feel is almost lost today, they feel dated, yet they are still there. So we used them as prints and subverted them. This exploration felt timely with where we are in fashion right now: lines between genders are blurred, there are no labels anymore”.
The collection seeks and strives for originality. More than looking at some trends of the period, Jonny Johansson’s Acne Studios develops new combinations and shapes trying to provide a speed to wear like everyday days. A dynamic expression of look and industrial research in content.
Acne Studios Women’s Spring Summer 2024 show. Paris Fashion Week
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo