Alexander McQueen just for one day

by Alain Chivilò

 

I, I will be king
And you, you will be queen
Though nothing will drive them away
We can beat them, just for one day
We can be Heroes, just for one day

With this song, the last collection and catwalk by Creative Director Sarah Burton for Maison Alexander McQueen ended. Probably the conclusion of the founder and his legacy, because whoever enters will try to give an own personality while respecting the name of the Maison, otherwise we would see ineffective re-proposals. We will certainly have time to check.

Back to the catwalk, the Spring Summer Collection 2024 takes up the concept of female anatomy already highlighted in the current season now in stores. A final tribute to Lee Alexander McQueen but also to herself, designer Sarah Burton, who continued to define the vision of the fashion house, always exploring new stylistic canons. Thanks full of feeling and passion between collaborators and the whole world of glamor that revolves around.

A female anatomy with a transgressive, creative value without compromising a fundamental vision. The collection respects this approach touching the soul of the Maison Alexander McQueen.

A blood red rose is present, not as a trend of the period in the fashion world, but to carry on a fil rouge with the founder. The pattern is printed in different shapes as present in the finely crafted dresses for games and views of fabrics.

Entering the collection, few hours after the catwalk, a brushstroke of red on black and silver on white aimed at recalling the print of an ideal scarf passes along the dress of a blazer to continue in a breakdown of threads lined up movement and personality to the dress in its entirety. Furthermore, geometric cuts on the fabric of blazers, skirts that continue through very sinuous leather strips at the walk, embroidery with pearls and crochet embroidered knitwear.

Denim is close-fitting to the silhouette, a bare shoulder emerges from a yellow and gold dress. A dangling earring swings freely from the left earlobe. Revisited corsets refer to clear and technological shapes.

The palette lives in black, white, crimson red, yellow, gold and silver with matchings dedicated to the floral world.

Creative Director Sarah Burton greets the Alexander McQueen maison carrying out the latest anatomical investigation into her way of understanding women’s fashion. A Spring Summer 2024 full of personality and temperament, above all less bucolic. A woman towards hard rock music rather than sentimental or easy tendencies. A voice to wear without auto-tune and we like it that way.

The successor for the Alexander McQueen Fashion House? What’s next for Burton? The coming months will provide news.

 

 

©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo

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