by Alain Chivilò
Actress Margaret Qualley is the face of the Haute Couture, Spring Summer 2024 collection designed by Virginie Viard for Maison Chanel.
As a model, Qualley Antonoff, couldn’t quite hide her feelings with the number one look of the show. If for professional models almost total impersonality is required and the gaze in one point towards the photographers or in the area of the main camera, the American, all in tulle, revealed a genuine emotion as anchor of the collection for an international and historical Fashion House like Chanel.
The collection could be defined in the statements of the Creative Director, “I often think about dance, it’s an important theme at Chanel. The House is close to its institutions, to its choreographers and dancers, and we create costumes for the ballet”. Not only as indicated: “I have tried to bring together the power and finesse of bodies and clothes in a very ethereal collection, composed of tulle, ruffles, pleats and lace”.
At the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris, 56 looks are “the button” of a story which, on the one hand, highlights in the video preview how benevolence can allow that something extra, on the other as the fil rouge of the button dedicated to the founder Coco is a jewel element and complement to be respected when using and combining.
The driving looks, in homage to ballet, of the collection are wearability over ballet leotards and tights, without forgetting the white color.
As the show progresses, looking through the various clothes on offer, the buttons as an element of matching and appearance, small touches and delicate traces of colors placed vertically, horizontally or asymmetrically, a fresh green suit in wearability and appearance, a camellia brooch to close a long-sleeved bolero, floral inserts, mother of pearl, a black bow.
Jumpsuits and capes embellished with embroidery depicting drapes, short and straight transparent skirts, long dresses, illusion-effect tulle pockets. Continuing, shoes with heels, an eye-catching pink, hoods, tulle duvets, fine lace and embroidery, sequins, little flowers decorated on black, a visible navel that comes out of an open jacket but closed only at the top for even unexpected views in the wearer’s movements, eight buttons stand out on a black dress.
Classical dance is sacrifice, practice and exercise. The movements tend, between interpretations of joy and pain, towards an air of sweetness and harmony. In the heritage of the Maison, Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel designed the dance as Virginie Viard takes up today for a modern collection in Haute Couture.
Chanel, Spring Summer 2024, Paris Haute Couture Show
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo