by Alain Chivilò
Maison Chanel and its Creative Director Virginie Viard presented a cool and fresh collection dedicated to the Women for next Spring Summer 2024.
As displayed in the preview, Teaser, the Villa has been selected for a real association with the owner and the founder of the Fashion House: Marie-Laure de Noailles and Gabrielle Chanel were connected through a character very strong and friendships with the artistic avant-garde.
The leitmotif is represented by the word freedom. A state of being and soul that the landscape around Hyères creates and determines, among hills, sea and bays. The villa, designed in 1923 by Robert Mallet-Stevens, of the last century owners Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles, presents a suggestive panoramic point, creating extremely positive sensations, emotions and passions in those who feel. An idyll or utopia of autonomy, independence and spontaneity, in short, of freedom. The collection aims to put the woman outdoors in action and possibly having fun.
The palette is delicate and in its range provides a constant sense of freshness. No dress falls into other seasons. Everything must be between Spring and Summer.
The bond between Marie-Laure and Gabrielle Chanel is also brought to attention in the black sunglasses adorned with gold chains.
The Villa has another link with Viard’s concept because the effects of the sun and light with the gardens and architecture have profuse abstractions, geometries for a pseudo reference to the decompositions linked to the Cubist artistic movement. In the different looks the collection develops in multiple geometric motifs, in games of contrasting asymmetries, in stripes and patchwork but also in square patterns that give the dress a rhythm in the silhouette.
The transparencies, slits and necklines convey an idea of sensuality without going too far into an explicit vision. The collection is airy, delicate, in tune with the warm season, well-matched, precious and not loud. In short, fine, carefree and elegant.
The tweed is inevitable and becomes a further symbol of naturalness and liveliness: “sophistication and informality, the tweed throughout the collection, sportswear and lace: I tried to bring one thing and its opposite together in the coolest way possible. And the gardens and swimming pool of the villa Noailles, that exceptional setting, lend themselves to that rather well” as indicated by Viard.
As highlighted in the collection, heels are flat while waists are low. Pleats and bows. Elasticity and lightness in dresses without lining and straps. Wide-leg shorts, cardigans, vests, trousers with pockets and asymmetric skirts.
Sunglasses but also eyeglasses. Chanel model necklaces but also choker collars. A delicate and light chain motif with the Coco 5 logo to be worn at the waist as an accessory designed to further add rhythm to the dress worn. Use of the Chanel logo in knitwear but also in clothes, as a sweet freshness given by precious floral prints in the foreground, but also as a multifaceted game in connection with the Maison’s logo itself.
Continuing the examination of the collection: striped Bermuda shorts, short dresses, a top in sunray pleats and double-breasted jackets worn open with hands in pockets. Suits in neoprene, dresses and trousers in lace adorned with floral motifs, black or pink tweed, multicolor jackets in striped terrycloth and dressing gowns.
Chanel, in Virginie Viard, has created a collection aimed at respecting the philosophy of movement, sun, open air within which to possibly be in harmony and well. Continuous alternations in the clothes between geometries, lines, logos and flowers make the clothes vibrant. Therefore, the women do not leave but remain in the French Fashion House with additional personalities to dress.
Chanel, Spring Summer 2024 Ready to Wear Show, Paris Fashion Week
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo