by Alain Chivilò
A historic brand, in this case fashion, allows you to have a unique heritage with multiple explorations, ideas and creations. Situations within which it is possible to find synergies, assonances, dissonances, new elaborations and new approaches.
The Women’s collection Cruise 2024 lives in Mexico and takes influence from its culture and tradition. The founder Christian Dior had a kind of fashination for the Central America’s Country so much so that he was influenced on a creative level in the various clothes created. As highlated, his taste for travel and foreign cultures was expressed in 1947 with one suit called Mexico. Year after year, Acapulco, Soirée à Mexico and Mexique, a tulle dress embroidered with golden scales, dreamed up for autumn-winter 1951.
Over time, for those who have real feelings and emotions in what they try to do, it is possible to perceive this approach of artistic closeness towards some places. Mexico was seen in the same light by Yves Saint Laurent and today by Maria Grazia Chiuri.
The show presented during Spring 2023 is an example how the creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri intend creations in fashion: an opportunity to mix innovations, old traditions, savoir-faire and creations. A real imagination useful to connect cultural values with the contemporaneity, along a research on materials, fabrics, craftsmanship and new technologies. For Cruise 2024 it has been fundamental to create artisanal collaborations with productive realities of Mexico as Rocinante, Yolcentle, Sna Jolobil, Remigio Mestas and in accessorie with Alema Atelier and Plata Villa.
Now it’s time to present the collection and to build a new communication about the different concepts inside.
The campaign for Dior Cruise 2024 was entrusted to the Italian photographer Brigitte Niedermair, already the author of several shots for the French Maison. In the photos are captured the concepts that the collection expresses with style and taste. The echo of the iconic artist Frida Kahlo is present and influences the setting of every single shot. A calla lily vase, symbol of simple and refined beauty, white with two models placed in symmetry with similar but different appearances. In the choreography the mirror is placed as a stylistic and scenographic motif and in plays with the various perspectives. A trunk becomes flowery and bare branches present lively blooms here and there. Butterflies as hairstyle, rings and necklaces. One of these rests gently on the toe of a worn boot. In double or single, the collection presents itself in the philosophy and conception of ¡Que viva México!
Giving new looks to the collection, it’s possible to point out how the clothes are in line with Frida’s approach to life in affirmation, protest and proclamation. An independence, not always brought to fruition throughout the troubled relationship with Rivera, present in photos portrayed in a masculine way real sources of interpretation for the clothes designed.
As highlighted, like a precious jewel case for a broken body, a cocoon-case concealing a butterfly meta-morphed into a motif unfolding in multiple shades and forms, through a series of prints. Moths also come to life on the silhouettes, based on a sketch by Andrée Brossin de Méré from the Dior archives.
Furthermore, strong ties and a pink dress reminiscent of the one worn by Frida Kahlo in one of her self-portraits is featured. Variety of cotton, hemp and silk lace selected, by the meticulous designs of the collars sublimating the jersey and black velvet and by the butterflylike jacquards. Velvet is revisited in a mesmerizing palette of colors on skirts that, thanks to their pleats, emphasize the hips before opening into corollas. Butterflies also populate the toile de Jouy, illustrating Mexican flora and fauna alongside parrots, monkeys and strelitzias that also illuminate the paintings of Frida Kahlo.
In short, Mexico lives in Maria Grazia Chiuri and in the Dior Cruise 2024, also during the fashion show through the performance of the feminist artist Elina Chauvet and the historic host venue at the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso. A mature collection full of references because wearing a dress means being and existing, without too many troubles for and by the so-called others.
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo