by Alain Chivilò
In a set conceived between an apartment in the process of being defined and a scenography, the women’s collection, Autumn 2024, created by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior lives within a minimalism made of class and elegance. Laura Sciacovelli’s photos frame the collection in the best possible way, highlighting every single look.
The clothes, in a timely combination, make you be present without appearing with different stylistic solutions.
The tweed fabric that crosses the sleeve from men’s to women’s clothing, the embroidery, the leather, the polite transparencies, the masculine cut are some elements that make the collection extremely intriguing.
The atmosphere is contemporary but the lifeblood comes from the American-born German actress and singer Marlene Dietrich, a true creative point of reference for Chiuri.
A further element characterizing the collection is the presence of prints dedicated to two symbols of respective metropolises that are linked by historical events: the Statue of Liberty in New York and the Eiffel Tower in Paris, which inaugurated their respective iconocity in the 1880s still alive today.
The tie, look 2, if worn by a man would give that idea of a character bordering on irritability, but worn by a woman it provides that masculinity that does not disturb.
The brindle animalier, looks 22-59-60, combines that aggressiveness but also elegance without going into the already seen.
Shorts are almost a fil rouge combined in different looks with jackets, blouses, pea coats, vests, balzers and anoraks.
From the 1940s, the masculine cut as for example in the look 58 matched of blazer, vest, blouse and fitted pants.
The prints with the buildings and monuments of the capital for example in looks 71, 72, 73 and 74. The matching present in the look 80 with tank top, cargo pants, anorak and overshirt.
Continuing in the fashion prints, the Statue of Liberty stands out in looks 64, 76, 80 and 81 while the Eiffell Tower in 65 and 66.
The leather, looks 51 and 52, in jumpsuit-blouse and peacoat-sweater, while the embroidery evokes brooches in bee, star, clover and lily of the valley. A long dress with an unexpectedly warm color, between red and orange, lights up the atmosphere.
The collection combines minimalism in sophistication, masculinity in femininity, sensuality in almost non-appearance for a contemporary retro chic. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection for Autumn 2024 can only be a further success in Dior.
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo