by Alain Chivilò
At the pyramids of Giza a unique presentation. Men in Dior were ancient Egyptian for the Men’s Fall Winter 2023 collection by Creative Director Kim Jones.
Around one year ago a suggestive presentation for a collection to be experienced today, this season, for Men.
At that time The models looked like contemporary tourists in futuristic and sophisticated clothes. A metaphisical atmosphere for knits in fine cashmere and shiny wools draped into capes or taolored to boxy jackets.
Kim Jones said how his “interest in ancient Egypt is about the stars and the sky. It’s that fashination with the ancient world and the parallels with what we look at today; what we inherited from them and what we are still learning from the past”.
Pointing out the heritage of the Maison and the Ancient Egyptian’s culture, Jones continued how the collection “links to Christian Dior in that sense and by way of his fashination with symbols and superstitions that recur throughout his life and work, one of which is the star. In both the collection and the show there is an idea of – guided by the stars – and what that can entail in many ways. It’s about how the past shapes the future or an idea of the future from the past”.
Although everything passes and is replaced by something else, returning to some essential points of the collection: the palette is in a gradation of greys recalling the desert: from day to dusk with hints of a fiery sunset seeping in between.
Connecting Ancient Egypt to the Contemporary, as displayed, clothes are layered textures, outerwear and accessories swathe, with cocooning protection attained by all. A new crin-like wool demi-kilts originating from the bias pleated skirt of a Dior archival dress bonne fortune (around fifties), that become at once a nod to this most ancient of men’s garments and part of a new technical language as an over garment. Suits have also technical jacquard transparencies.
Bag and shoes, as highlighted, are in a mix of contemporary techniques and textures, from high-frequency neoprene paneling and injection moulding to anodized metal finishes.
Comes with it as a reminder, some photos from the fashion show, pyramids and also the backstage.
The collection is already on shops and Dior’s web site. Now Men are in ancient stars.
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo