by Alain Chivilò
The Dior Men’s Collection for Winter 2024-2025, conceived by Creative Director Kim Jones, starts from two basic concepts: the union of Couture with Ready To Wear, but above all the connections with the Jones Family which has been linked to the world of Dance, Photography and the Dior collections. These aspects are alive and always coexist together.
Michael Jones is Kim’s father, while Colin Jones is his uncle. The latter was a dancer and then a photographer. In his professionalism he entered into relationships with the étoile Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev. Colin’s wife, Lynn Seymour was also into dancing.
All this intertwining, simplified here, represents the collection entitled “Nureyev” dedicated to Colin and Michael Jones.
In Kim Jones’ analysis as stated, “I had been thinking about the relationship between the ballet dancer Margot Fonteyn and monsieru Dior. The masculine interpretation of this also involved thinking about her most famous dance partner: Rudolf Nureyev”. Furthermore, in conclusion, “In reality. Here it is a meeting of the dancer’s style with that of the Dior Archive”.
Dance, in the figure of Rudolf Nureyev, onstage and backstage, is the fil rouge that unites Haute Couture in the Men’s Collection with Ready-to-Wear always in the name of Heritage Dior, a reading principle in all collections of the Maison.
In a scenography that becomes enveloping and ultimately rises upwards, 60 looks illustrated the practical and visual concept that underpins the “Nureyev” collection.
The flagship is the Kimono. Designed by Christian Dior in 1950 and worn by Margot Fonteyn, it is proposed now by Jones in a men’s version. Ten professionals and three months of works to complete the Kimono: from Nureyev to the silver uchikake with its prestigious Hikihaku weaving technique.
Socks also on display in yellow, red and blue. The trousers become shorter. Knitwear with asymmetric lines for lively and colorful geometric areas. Denim long jacket with belt and trousers with highlighted stitching, finely crafted leather.
The palette is mixed but in shades in line with the season with some hints of color. Grey, dark brown, white, black, ivory in further nuances.
Wool tracksuits and shorts with zip, second-skin ribbed knit, flared trousers, single-breasted with references to the Sixties and Seventies. Velvet hats, bags and bum bags with stylistic reworkings. The collection dances and rhythms between folds, slits, volumes and necklines between past and present.
Compared to some trends seen in recent years, in which some concepts present one another among fashion houses and designers, even in the same seasonality, Kim Jones has conceived an original Men’s Collection for next Winter 2024. Although Heritage Christian Dior is always present, the Creative Director expressed creativity for an unconventional way of dressing. A successful and expertly balanced collection in matchings and meetings.
The Dior Men’s Winter 2024-2025 Show
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo