by Alain Chivilò
The Dior Spring Summer 2024 Women’s collection, through the vision of Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri, is very profound and conceptual. Every dress hides a story. While warm weather can imply lightheartedness and banality, in this case it’s the opposite. Several contents are hidden and are clearly for the female universe. A unique personality and way of being, also trying to understand, far from appearances or special effects, who ultimately is a person to be considered valid in some way. Establish and respect the times of nature. The meaning of the present in our times. The refusal of all the clichés that confine women to predefined categories.
To strengthen these difficult conceptualities, the ready to wear collection lived along the immersive video installation “NOT HER” by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni. The art installation, occupying all the walls of the set, uses the analog split-flap device, a succession of female figures (including the artist herself) reworked by Bellantoni, in a pop spirit, using imagery from sexist adverts and counterpoint phrases to respond to the dominant stereotype: “it’s not her, she’s no longer all that”.
A collection presents suits conceived from the context of the times marking the different phases of a day, moments of life but also, something that can be indescribable.
The collection lives in 78 dresses. Going inside: shoes with calf laces. An earring in the left ear. A choker necklace. Elegant, refined and polite transparencies. Precious lace workmanship.
Black and white had a strong presence in the collection with matchings between the two colors aimed at breaking up the mono one.
Remembering the artist Alberto Burri, the work on the fabrics recalled elements such as combustions, lacerations and tears. In brief: work on matter as a constitutive, performative element of the garment.
Other shades in the seen palette: love potions (secrets by Chiuri), chamomile and ash. As noted, knitwear accompanies and caresses the curves of the body, enveloping without constricting, it is warm, sexy. A very light, metallic sweater alludes to chainmail.
The prints on the clothes were interesting and recalled, especially on a black background, a sort of X-ray impression. From here a shape of the Eiffel Tower appeared, the Mille-fleurs, geometrical motis, action lines, fantastical animals, medicinal herbs and the phases of the sun and moon.
Personalizing and creating are unique elements for the Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri. In the Dior’s Spring Summer 2024 collection, each dress becomes a small story that every woman can make her own. Clothes with substance and personality. Signs of the times but also of the moments we visualize and live.
Dior Not Her, Spring-Summer 2024, Women’s Collection, Paris Fashion Week
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo