Loewe in Albert York

by Alain Chivilò

 

Loewe, Women’s Fall Winter 2024-25 at the Paris Fashion show. A parade with an exhibition of painting as choreography. Art comes into contact with Fashion and vice versa. An idea for a solo painting exhibition that opens and closes in the space of a handful of hours. A scope that will not go unnoticed as per global trends.

Creative director Jonathan Anderson conceived a collection based on the paintings of the artist Albert York (Detroit 1928 – New York 2009), giving a fresh soul to the entire collection.

A double-path set, one inside the other in three different shades of green to give greater depth, made available the largest exhibition of works by the artist Albert York outside the United States in eighteen paintings. The painter worked on small dimensions, maximum within 30 cm per side, within landscapes, animals, still lifes, flowers and portraits. An intimate, timeless representation, simple in its execution but dreamlike.

52 looks between women and men. From painted subjects, in this case flora, but also animals, a hand-decorated asparagus bag or trousers with radish or turnip prints, a bustier sculpted like petals, a sculpted dress with a dog print, a sweater with a bird on the branch.

A palette from a light and fresh green, to blue, to black, to sienna colour for example, but also a tartan motif rendered in a very cool and young way.

Very wide trousers, leather garments, a sweater with threads pulled across the front to create a soft foam effect, a drop of water with amplified shapes is placed on the shoulder almost like a magnifying glass for the floral motifs of the dress, while the belt deconstructed with a buckle that fastens the drapery of a dress, also becoming an element in itself, transforming into a heeled mule.

Jonathan Anderson starts from Albert York to define a collection divided between research into silhouette shapes and motifs that give life to the entire collection. The presence of a personal exhibition is nothing new for Loewe like fashion shows but, it provides a plus that appeals to those who always feel something dwelling on things.

 

©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo

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