by Alain Chivilò
The Summer 2024 for Maison Stella McCartney is along the words multiple choice. Different solutions and matchings to connect according ourselves, in everyday life, an events of the day or no events of the day, travelling, an outing with company or alone. Not only for Women but also some suits for Men.
Sunny, windy and the Eiffel Tower welcomed the catwalk of the British Maison which found a bit of London in Paris. A sort of Portobello was at the Marché Saxe-Breteuil transformed into Stella’s Sustainable Market. Across 21 stalls everyone is invited to experience the pioneering materials featured in the collection.
As statement by Creative Director Stella: “I am so excited to welcome you to Stella’s Sustainable Market, bringing to life over 20 years of cruelty-free and conscious material innovations across 22 stalls. I am so proud of what we have achieved, and will continue to accomplish through our plant-based and nature-positive alternatives. Step into a market where fruits are worn instead of eaten, alongside innovators from other industries who are helping to create a world that is kinder to Mother Earth. There is a better way”.
Raising awareness for conscious alternatives, as pointed out, because the Stella McCartney Fashion House has long been committed to respecting the planet, using fabrics and materials compatible with Nature and the Environment without stressing ecosystems.
The proposed collection was varied without using too much elements and trends characterizing the next Spring Summer seasons. From travel, business, daily days until special events or parties.
A revisited archive from the McCartney’s family for new looks, new alternative materials used, some collaborations with artists and previews of upcoming capsules. The fashion show was very varied and models had to walk on the market street.
Cape, raincoat, denim, wide suspenders coordinated with the color of the clothes, polite transparencies but also boldly opened shirts. Leather jacket. A bow tie made of sequins worn loose and free and a small portrait appeared fleetingly along with a bag. The palette’s nuance is along black, white, sand, canary yellow and mint.
Noticed in white and black, balloon shapes on gowns, mini-dresses and bomber jackets in NONA Source repurposed silk taffetas and forest-friendly viscose satins. Corsets inform lacing across denim, hot pants and trousers in Alter Mat. Painted florals bloom on draped forest-friendly viscose maxi and asymmetric mini dresses.
Along the collection: tuxedos in cropped and corseted tailcoats, first in graphic black and white followed by roomy lurex tailoring in soft mineral blue, peach and ivory canvas. Bibs feature on organic cotton poplin shirting and denim jackets, with matching cummerbund inserts.
Aggressive or rock looks are made and conceived in metallic brocade tailoring, alongside black and crystal-encrusted waistcoats styled over poplin ruffled shirting.
Small circular mirros are hand-crocheted into ecru knit dresses using Kelsun™️, a seaweed-based yarn, a world first for luxury and as chaps on denim. Whimsical a pois motif appear throughout, featured on floor-length wrap dresses, asymmetric mini dresses and ruffle-skirted dresses in chiffon. Edit leans into texture, proportion and decoration, adorned with the wearable art by the sculptor Andrew Logan.
From Stella’s parents, vintage Wings merch graphics are revisited on organic cotton t-shirts. As preview, they sit under a varsity jacket featuring the work of artist Hajime Sorayama, with a limited-edition capsule launching in December 2023.
About menswear: total white, total black. A jacket, trousers and t-shirt, a transparent underneath, a scarf around the neck, an unworn bow tie, a mirrored weave. A bag with a feminine look and a small portrait photo hanging. Essentially essential as man must be, perhaps trying to get some more attention (probably yes, probably no, now joking a little bit).
As noted in the catwalk and communicated at a technical level: Frayme crafted from a vegan alternative to animal leather using grape by-product from Veuve Clicquot’s harvest, fully traceable and grown using regenerative agriculture practices. Falabella is revisited in new twisted and crystal-encrusted triangle silhouettes, as well as a grey edition in plant-based, plastic-free MIRUM®. New Terra pumps feature sculptural heels with Y2K grape-based VEGEA straps, as well as twisted turban uppers and knotted biobased mesh. The S-Wave Sport trainer is constructed with entirely conscious materials, including a recycled upper and sole, an organic cotton label and hemp lining.
For the next Summer 2024 Stella McCartney Maison’s collection appears visibly free without anchoring itself too much to the fashion trends seen in recent collections and seasons. The use of materials that respect the environment and planet is always a winning ace. In the end – between a rock and a hard place or with or without a ticket to ride – wear and match as you want and as you like.
Stella McCartney Summer 2024. Women’s and Men’s collection. Paris Runway Show
©AC, NDSL, AM, Alain Chivilo