by Alain Chivilò
Maison Stella McCartney launched its Spring 2024 collection. Dresses for the women celebrated at every stage of their lives. Nature, animals and womanhood along reflection and contemplation according to Stella’s American heritage and personal wardrobe.
The dynamics of the collection moves around the Lady Garden. A real place between surrealism and methaphical which the ageless women in Stella could exist away from society’s expectations, free to be themselves without judgment or compromise. As indicated, “it is an escape into a safe place in nature, bringing together a likeminded community around femininity, friendship and fashion”. A contemporary arcadia where men, probably, need a special invitation.
As main policy by Stella McCartney: “90% of the ready-to-wear collection is crafted from responsible materials. Spring 2024 is free from animal leather, feathers, fur and skins, featuring forest-friendly viscose, GOTS-certified organic cotton and silk, regenerative cotton, recycled nylon, GRS recycled cashmere, RAS alpaca wool, recycled polyester and RWS wool from traceable sources”.
Going into the 44 looks, colors among raspberry, white, black, grey, camel, oat, caramel, gesso and faded khaki green, contrasted with floral pink, sky blue, grass and tangerine, evolving Winter 2023’s ginger tones.
Broderie anglaise flowers are encrusted into the busts of airy linen-cotton dresses, masculine shirting and t-shirt mini dresses, while a daisy jacquard is rendered all-over on forest-friendly viscose lingerie halter dresses. Floral Cornely embroidery creates windows of skin, placed into the busts of black woven dresses with ergonomic lines of cut-outs.
Floral print was hand-drawn in Stella’s London atelier, rendered on day-to-night halter dresses in ultra-light organic crinkled chiffon matched by pussy-bow shirting and deconstructed skirts, falling into layers with effortless movement. It is inserted as unexpected chiffon patches on masculine organic cotton shirting. A bolder take includes dresses with asymmetric cape-sleeves and rouleau straps.
New jeans in light vintage washes are cut in a fresh banana shape. Bi-tonal overshirts and shorts continue this pale aesthetic, in beige and cream. Organic denim contrasts light washes with beige woven inserts, across boyfriend jeans and jackets.
New is the Elsa footwear family, characterised by sculptural heels inspired by archival Stella designs across pointed pumps, mules and ankle boots. The Ryder fluffy pump returns in seasonal tones and as a ballet flat, whilst the Falabella over-the-knee boot is handcrafted in a sand woven vegan suede. Evening elegances comes from a new Iconics offerings, with crystal straps and mirrored metallics on sharp stilettos.
Vegan accessories are seen in mirrored metallics alongside new Frayme mini bucket bag crafted from MIRUM® – a plant-based, plastic-free alternative, circular alternative to animal leather. The Logo bag is revisited as a crescent mini hobo, whilst the iconic Falabella becomes a slouchy bucket style. Building on Winter 2023’s material innovations are new accessories in Appleskin™️ cruelty-free crocodile and smooth VEGEA, respectively made from apple and grape waste.
Pulling from Stella’s personal archive, day-to-night corsets feature metal front fastenings, back lacing and a nod to boning. Corsetry gives a hard edge to iconic white all-in-ones in organic cotton, bursting into slouchy trousers. The statement star cut-out trousers from the Summer 2023 runway show are revisited twice as a low-rise slim tailored trousers and as wide-legged organic denim in a lightly frayed pale vintage wash, sitting perfectly on the hip.
Preppy letterman jackets platform a new Stella “S” varsity symbol, with a responsibly sourced regenerative wool base and sleeves in Alter Mat – a butter-soft vegan alternative to animal leather. A casual American attitude is felt in men’s shirting, extended into crisp blue organic cotton poplin dresses. Sculpted blazers are styled over skirts with double slits.
An evening edit includes floor-length t-shirt dresses with lead-free crystal chokers and asymmetric cape-sleeved gowns in raspberry forest-friendly jersey. Moulded tuxedo dresses sit alongside men’s formal shirting, cut from contrasting organic cotton piquet and silk chiffon. Evening tailoring continues with iconic Stella capes and classic smoking jackets.
Stella Mc’s Spring 2024 collection has a sense of balance by placing the woman in delicate, classy and elegant atmospheres. The necklines are created without exceeding too much giving a smart portability. The cut and matching are for today’s woman. Everything is real although the nice situations for each of us are placed in the surrealist Lady Garden. The choice to use materials that are true friends of Nature has always been winner from the outset and soon all the brands will take this path. Between an American and a little British style, the international woman is always vivacious and enthusiastic.
by Alain Chivilò